ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 816_b

A small textile fragment presents  evidence of a finer weave than the previous fabric. Owing to its very limited dimensions, no sample was taken for fibre analysis; however, the appearance of the threads strongly suggests that this textile is also made of flax. Unlike the first fabric quality, this specimen appears to be woven sith single, s-twisted threads. This is highly unusual for this period, in which the vast majority of textiles are produced using plied threads. 

The fragment conserves part of a selvedge. One thread direction consists of pairs of threads working together, while the other contains single threads. At the edge, the paired threads split: one turns to the left and the other to the right before re-entering the fabric. In effect, the weft passes over and under two warp threads instead of one, producing a reinforced edge commonly known as rep. This  technique is traditionally associated with the starting borders of textiles woven on the warp-weighted loom. Comparable rep starting borders are known from several periods and regions: a Neolithic fabric from Switzerland (Barber 1991, 135, fig. 4.12),  an Early Bronze Age fabric from Lucone di Polpennazze, Brescia, Italy (Gleba and Harris 2018), various Hallstatt fabrics (Grömer 2005, 20), and a 5th c. BCE textile from Eleusis, Attica (Spantidaki, pers. obs.; Mylonas 1954, fig. 11; Zisis 1954, fig. 1)

Because the fragment is very small and preserves only part of the edge, the available measurements cannot be considered representative of the entire textile. Edges are typically reinforced, leading to a higher density than in the main body of the fabric. The textile could therefore correspond either to a balanced or a weft-faced tabby.

 
Grave Circle : 
A
Tomb: 
V
Textile ID: 
ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 816_b
Funerary context: 
Inhumation
Date: 
16th c. BCE
Museum: 
Hellenic National Archaeological Museum
Excavator: 
H. Schliemann, P. Stamatakis
State of conservation: 
Mineralised
Weave: 
Tabby
Threads Structure System I: 
s
Threads Structure System II: 
s
Threads diameter System I: 
0.15-0.27
Threads diameter System II: 
0.22-0.52
Thread count System I: 
12
Thread count System II: 
16
Material System I: 
Flax?
Material System II: 
Flax?
Structural elements: 
Fragment of a rep starting border
Analyses: 
Macroscopic observation
Dimensions: 
8,19 x 5,17mm
Picture: